Giidi sõnul oli tegemist oma aja näidislinnaga, mille looja/arhitekti eesmärgiks oli luua (autovaba) linn, kus ühest otsast teise on võimalik 20 minutiga jalgsi/jalgrattaga jõuda. Praegu tuleb hoonetele ligi pääsemiseks ronida praktiliselt läbi metsa. Giidil olid kaasas ka tolleaegsed pildid, mis andsid aimu, kuidas kõik varem välja nägi. Sarnasusi neilt piltidelt oli praegusega raske leida.
Peale 2011. aastal kokku varisenud koolimaja, on väidetavalt keelatud viibida sealsetes hoonetes. Meie käisime sellegipoolest paaris kohas sees ning kipun arvama, et privaat - ja mitmepäevastel tuuridel saab ilmselt ka rohkematesse kohtadesse (võimalik et ka kortermajadesse) siseneda - aga see on kõigest spekulatsioon.
Üllataval kombel on tsoonis ka kiirusepiirang, 40 km/h, aga sellest ei pea keegi kinni.
//
Pripyat, finally. First, a small stop by the sign, talk/introduction of the red forest and then city itself. I was expecting to recognize it instantly, having watched thousands of photos and hundreds of movie clips/documentaries, but jeez, I couldn't even understand where the first stop was, no buildings were clearly visible. Gone were the big and spacious streets, it all looked like a jungle. It was definitely worse than I had expected.
The guide said that Pripyat was supposed to be a model city. Its architect had in mind a small, car free city which one could walk/bicycle from one end to another in 20 minutes. You'd have to walk through a forest to get near any of the buildings in the present day. The guide also had some images of the way Pripyat once was, but nothing even looked remotely similar.
After a school collapsed in 2011, it's no longer allowed to go inside the buildings in Pripyat. Despite that we still got to go into couple of places and I have a suspicious feeling that during private or multi-day tours, you could maybe even get into the apartment buildings - but that's just a theory.
Surprisingly there is a speed limit of 40 km/h in the zone, but no one really abides by that law.
Gaseeritud vee/kalja automaadid, mis pakkusid erilist huvi ja hämmingut välismaalastele, kui giid ütles, et inimesed kasutasid sealt joomiseks automaadi juures olevat ühist klaasi. NSVL ei toetanud ületarbimist.
//
Sparkling water/root beer vending machines which intrigued our foreign friends when the guide said that getting a drink meant using a shared glass (no plastic personal cups) that was always there. USSR didn't support consumerism.
Sadam. Vastaskaldal olevat olnud rüüstajate tõeline paradiis, sest sinna viidi Pripyati elanike isiklikud asjad. Esialgsel evakuatsioonipäeval jäeti elanikele mulje, et linna tullakse tagasi ning paluti kaasa võtta vaid hädavajalikud asjad. Tagasitulekut muidugi enam ei juhtunud ja suurem enamus ei näinud oma vara enam kunagi. Sellegipoolest anti elanikele võimalus hiljem naasta ning võtta endisest kodust ehteid, fotosid ja näiteks raha - väiksemaid asju, mis kontrolliti kõik kiirgusemõõtjaga üle. Infot sellisest võimalusest väga avalikult siiski ei levitatud ning lõppkokkuvõttes tulid oma väärtuslikumate asjade järele vaid umbes 40% elanikest. Ilmselt olid selleks hetkeks linnast üle käinud ka esimesed rüüstajate lained ning rahalist väärtust omav vara oli ammuseks pihta pandud ja Kiievis maha müüdud.
//
A small harbour. The officials took all the belongings of the people to the opposing shore, which made that place a goldmine for the looters. On the evacuation day the locals were only asked to take the most important things and were left with the impression that they would return once the danger had passed. But as we all know, they were never allowed to return and most of them never got to see their possessions ever again. Nevertheless the government still made it possible to return for the smaller belongings (jewelry, money, photos) which were all checked for radiation. Unfortunately this information wasn't that widely spread and thus only 40% of people came back to collect some of their things. I'm not sure how much time had passed until they could come back, but I'm certain that by then the city had had its first waves of looters, who had stripped everything of value and sold them in Kiev.
Hotell Polissija olevat olnud üks uhkemaid hotelle NSVLs. Sinna reserveeringut saada oli kaunikesti keeruline ning ooteajad olevat olnud mitu kuud.
//
Hotel Polissija was once one of the most prestigious hotels in the former Soviet Union. It was difficult the get a room there and waiting lists were couple of months long.
Pood, mida külastasid inimesed ka Pripyatist palju kaugemalt. Seal poes oli kaupa rohkem ja kõike oli ka kohe saada, tõeline unelm tollasele nõukogude inimesele. Seetõttu tasus külastus ära ka mitmekümnete kilomeetrite kauguselt.
//
A grocery store which was visited even by people who lived much farther away from Pripyat. This store had more produce that was available right away - all sounded like a dream for the ordinary Soviet person of that time and that's why it was worth a visit even if you were not a local.
Umbkaudu on hotelli katuse järgi võimalik pilt kokku panna.
//
You can vaguely see the resemblance by matching the hotel's roof.
Ja siin loomulikult üks kõige äratuntavamaid Pripyati sümboleid, lõbustuspargi vaateratas. Mõned hetked hiljem oli seal rahvast juba oluliselt rohkem, seega erilist kunsti selliste massidega teha ei õnnestu. Ka selle pildi jaoks pidin enda grupist ette jooksma, kuid arvestades olustikku ja võimalusi, võin jäädvustatuga rahule jääda.
Lisaks meie jutlevale giidile, oli kaasas ka teine giid, kes inglise keelt ei rääkinud ning kes ilmselt hoidis silma peal, et keegi omapäi seiklema ei läheks. Mees võttis ühel hetkel palja käega vaateratta kollasest kapslist kinni ja lükkas selle liikuma nii, et katuselohku kogunenud vihmavesi uhke kosena alla sadas. Vaateratta peal on ka kuumkoht, kus giidid iga kord radioaktiivsust mõõdavad ning ilmselt omakeskis edetabeleid teevad.
Vaateratta läheduses asusid postid, mille vahele oli veetud okastraat. Giidi sõnul oli tegemist taaskordse fotolavastusega, sest okastraat oli uuem ning orignaalis seda seal polnud. Selliste asjade osas tekib küsimus, et kui see ala on nüüdisajal nii hästi valvatud, siis kuidas jalutab mingi vend okastraadirulliga sisse ja hakkab sellest fotosid tegema?
//
And here is one of the most recognizable symbols of Pripyat, the ferris wheel in the amusement park. Some moments later the field was filled with people, so you can't really relax and take your sweet time trying to compose a shot. I also had to run ahead of my group, but taking all the tricky elements into consideration, I'm quite pleased with the outcome.
In addition to our main guide, there was another guy with us who didn't speak English and was probably also keeping an eye out for the ones who wanted to wander around. One moment the guy pushed the yellow pod with his bare hands, making the rain water from the dented roof fall down like a waterfall. The ferris wheel is also a hotspot where the guides measure and keep track of the biggest readings they've gotten.
There were couple of concrete poles with barbed wire between them near the ferris wheel. Our guide said that someone had fabricated this for a photo-op, because the barbed wire was definitely newer and wasn't originally there. Things like these make me wonder how is it possible for someone to walk into a guarded area with a roll of barbed wire and start taking photos there?
See on lasteaed Tšeburaška, mis oli väidetavalt grupile üheks boonuskülastuseks. Võimalik, et see oli tõsi - piiripunktis kaotatud aja kompenseerimiseks, kuid võib-olla öeldakse sama paljudele gruppidele. Igal juhul minult nurisemist kindlasti ei kuule, tegemist oli väga unikaalse kogemusega.
//
This is a kindergarten called Cheburashka which was said to be a bonus visit for our group. Maybe it's true, to make up for the lost time at the checkpoint, but maybe they say that to all the groups. Anyway no complaints whatsoever, it was such a unique experience.
Ja ka siin on teoreetiliselt teine boonuskülastus, samuti üks äratuntavamaid sisevaateid Pripyatist. Giidi sõnul kasutati ujulat tööliste poolt veel varastel 90ndatelgi ning mälusopist meenub, et olen sama juttu ka eelnevalt kuulnud.
//
And this is another theoretical bonus visit, plus one of the most known interior views in Pripyat. Our guide said that this pool was still in use for the workers in the early 90s, which is something I think I've heard before.
Pripyatist väljudes peatusime ka tuletõrjujate endi poolt loodud mälestusmärgil, millega mälestatakse kõiki, kes päästeprotsessis-operatsioonis osalesid, kannatasid ja hukkusid. Kuna tuletõrjujad ei olnud kunstnikud, ei olnud neil skulptori tööst, kehaproportsioonidest jms aimugi ning seetõttu tõi giid välja, et töö ise on väga algeline - näiteks on kasutatud päris kiivreid, sest tuletõrjujad ei teadnud, kuidas neid kujuna teha. Samuti on proportsioonid paigast ära. Samas on see vastuvaidlematult üks südantsoojendavamaid mälestusmärke, mille osas kunstiklassiku kriitilist pilku omada ei olegi võimalik.
//
Leaving Pripyat we had a stop at the memorial that was made by the firefighters for all those people who worked and sacrificed their lives to save others. Since the firefighters are not artists, they had no idea how to make some of the parts, how to make people proportionate and so they improvised (used real helmets, equipment etc) and created something from their hearts. It's definitely one of the most heart-warming memorials, which you can't really be critical of. I personally believe it's beautiful.
No comments:
Post a Comment